Lions and tigers and bears, OH MY!

Let's get this straight--there are no tigers and bears in Africa, so don't make the tourist mistake of wanting to see some (like Sam did). ALTHOUGH, at the Kruger Park store in Skukuza yesterday, we were standing in front of a TV watching a film about these two conservationists who are trying to assimilate tigers into Africa's terrain. The tiger population in Asia is dwindling, so these men feel that Africa is the last hope for these magnificent creatures. We were absolutely mesmerized, but then we got kicked out by the manager because we were spilling ice cream onto their floor. We told him, "We're rich Americans and we can BUY your f-cking store, so we can do whatever we damn well please." So actually, maybe some day tigers WILL roam the African bush alongside lions (but not bears, sadly.) What would happen to the ecosystem??

So back to our morning bush walk...two trackers with rifles accompany the small group of five hikers. I don't think there have been many instances where the trackers have been forced to use their guns, as it's highly discouraged, but it makes you feel a little better about being an open target. You must walk silently in a single file line, and should NEVER stray. As soon as you do, you're vunerable, as animals see the line as one creature (just as they see vehicles as one animal). If there's a problem or if you spot an animal you indicate to the scouts by snapping, whistling, or hitting your thigh, since the trackers are always in the front of the line. It's very exciting, I daresay, because you really appreciate the sounds of the bush and the knowledge of the trackers. After all, your life is in their hands.

We went on another morning bush walk the next day, and this time Thabo was able to join us. Our two hottie Afrikaans trackers were extremely knowledgable, and led us around the Lower Sabie part of the park. It was much more open than Skukuza, so easier to hike, but less protection for us. One scout, Johan, cracked open a dried piece of elephant dung and explained that because the diet consists of plants, trees, bark, etc., the poop contains medicinal properties. He then proceeded to light it and actually smoked it (SEE PHOTO). We all got a puff and can I just say it was the sweetest shit I've ever smoked? Very kind.

As we continued on our journey we walked right into a herd of elephants. They were no farther than 20 meters away, so we quickly ducked behind a bush. Luckily, we were downwind from the elephants, and in addition to their poor vision this allowed us to approach quite close to the animals. We stalked them for quite some time--there were about 20 of them, including several babies (adorable). As the mother started to come towards us, however, we quickly ran with our heads down to another bush about 15 meters away. It's best to stay in the shade so your binocs/cameras don't reflect. Our trackers told us to keep an eye on the mother to see her reaction when she picked up our scent. Still running but looking back, we witnessed the most amazing spectacle. As soon as the mother reached the spot where we had been and smelled us, she stood as tall as ever, opened her ears and raised her trunk, swaying back and forth. IMMEDIATELY the rest of the herd moved away from the threat. F-cking unbelievable.

Elephants have the capacity to "speak" and hear at a very low 10hz. Humans, on the other hand, can only hear 40,000hz. Hence, communication is instantaneous...amazing. Surely the highlight of the day.

BUT WAIT, as we headed back to our Jeep after seeing other animals, we bumped into our herd of elephants again. At the same moment, a hippo came charging out of the water exactly towards the spot we were headed, so we could've been run over had we been there a few seconds earlier. You never want to break up a herd, so we circled all the way around the elephants back to our vehicle. Oh yeah, and a lion stalked us the whole time, threatening us with his menacing growls.

SPEAKING OF LIONS...

As you recall from my previous entry, we had seen 4 of the Big Five on Day One. Well, on the second day of our safari, we spotted numero cinco. A huge lioness walked right in front of our car as we drove through the park, stopping traffic in both directions. A stunning creature. We were extremely lucky to see all of the Big Five in our first 24 hours, as many people who come to the park only spot two or three over the course of a week. I think it was because the Park knew we Americans would sue them if they didn't pony up...

During that same drive, we pulled over to look at some baboons when one of them JUMPED up onto the trunk of our car. It crawled over our roof and ended up on the hood. If you haven't had one on your windshield, believe me when I say that baboons are disgusting creatures with nasty (and I mean nasty!) looking rear ends, like somebody slapped a raw steak there. GROSS! Apparently, all they want is food and they'll bite you and knock your camera from you. Thabo screamed "LOCK THE DOORS! LOCK THE DOORS!"

That's all for now. When I get a chance I will post more photos and stories from our week in Cape Town, which is a blur to me. Too much...hiking?

We're off to see the New Zealand vs. South Africa rugby game now...mmm...piles of hot, sweaty men. A welcome change from warthogs and vultures.

Cheers,
Q